Day.1. It was a long time I had not undertaken a solo journey. It was the month of September 2021. The Covid restrictions were also eased. The itch to travel solo to the remote Himalayas was unbearable as if mountains are calling me. But I could not zero in on a specific destination, as I believe that the journey itself through the picturesque surroundings on serpentine Himalayan roads is much more rewarding than the destination itself. Without keeping any destination in mind, I packed my bags with all the necessary items like a torch, woolens clothes, water bottles, camera, etc., and proceeded towards Inter-State Bus Terminus, Kashmere Gate. On reaching ISBT came to know that for travel to Uttrakhand, one needs to register first at the Uttrakhand Government website, which I had not done, so the next option was Himachal. I went to the Himachal Roadways booking counter and was informed that the bus to Rohru is about to leave. I have been to Dodra and Kwar villages across Chanshal Pass ten years back on one of my solo trips, I wanted to find out the changes in these two beautiful hamlets since my last visit. I bought the ticket for Rohru costing me Rs. 794/- and boarded the bus at 4.50 p.m. It reached Rohru at 7 a.m. and dropped me at the new bus stand of Rohru.
Rohru: It is a small town and epicenter of Apple trade. In Pabbar Valley the practice of apple cultivation is widespread making the life of the local population easy.People are well to do and it is a prosperous town. Due to the prosperity of this part of Himachal Pradesh, there is a shortage of labor, I was informed daily around 100 Tempo Travellers bring helping hands from Nepal as it was the apple picking season. It is also famous for trout fishing. A beautiful temple of Hathkoti Mata is also worth visiting near Rohru. The price of the hotels ranges from Rs. 800/- to a couple of thousand. The mobile network is excellent. There are plenty of eating places dishing out the local cuisine at pocket-friendly rates.
Day.2. I enquired at the booking window about bus timings to Dodra and Kwar Villages and was informed that the bus leaves at 10.30 a.m. and the cost of the ticket are Rs. 190/-. The washroom was quite clean at the bus station. After freshening up I waited for the bus as it was still two hours left. As time passed gradually more passengers started gathering there for the same bus. While waiting for the bus a village lady curiously looking at my rucksack and camera hanging from my neck started talking with me. She wanted to know, who I am and where I am going. I informed her that I am going to Dodra and Kawar villages and like to visit Chanshal Pass. With a surprising look at her face, she further enquired whether I do have someone known to me in these villages. She wore a curious look on her face when I told her that I just want to visit the beautiful villages and don’t have any specific reason. I knew these are off-beat destinations and not many people knew about the serenity and rustic beauty of these villages. She offered me shelter and food at her own house in Larot village as she was surprised by the fact that I am traveling to these remote villages all by myself. I excused myself and promised her that while returning I will try to stay at her house. The simplicity and graciousness of that lady touched my very inner feelings.
Suddenly there was a commotion in the crowd of passengers waiting for the bus and then the village lady informed me that the tickets counter has opened and it will be better to proceed to buy the ticket to avoid traveling without a seat as the passengers are more and seats are less. She also offered to buy my ticket as I had a rucksack. I paid her the ticket fare amounting to Rs 190/- and the bus started sharp at 10.30 a.m. It passed through stunning views along the Pabbar River. The first settlement was Chirgaon where our bus halted. There were some tea stalls, basic hotels, and a few shops selling household items. Then the bus started ascending the narrow road towards Chanshal Pass which is situated at the height of 4220 meters above sea level. The bus halted at Larot Village where the village lady got down not before reminding me of my promise of staying in her house and providing me with her mobile number.
The the serpentine road meandered through the dense coniferous forest all along the Pabbar River with scattered villages. This was the apple countryside, so widespread apple orchards were evident all along the route. Slowly as the bus gained altitude the River Pabbar changed its appearance and looked like a necklace of pearls, shimmering in rays of the Sun.
As we drew closer to Chanshal Pass the mountain tops with traces of snow started appearing. Just ten km before Chanshal Pass there was blasting going on for road widening because of which we had to wait for two hours for the road clearance. When the bus reached Chanshal Pass, it was a gratifying experience,I felt fully reinvigorated with sights and gushing fresh air. The vast expanses of meadows, snowcapped mountains, numerous waterfalls coming down from the melting snow, carpet of flowers with several colors and the bells ringing from the herds of sheep created a musical symphony of the lifetime. It was an experience one can’t forget ever. We stayed there for some time as all the vehicles halted at Chanshal Pass after continuous ascend.
There was a canteen in Bolero serving Maggi, Tea, and some snacks at Chanshal Pass as no structure is allowed at Chanshal Pass. The mobile networks work only before Chanshal Pass and beyond that only BSNL without internet. The bus reached Dodra Village a 5.00 p.m. I decided against going any further and got down at Dodra Village.
I knew from my previous visit to this part that there is a Negi Dhaba which also offers rooms for night stay as well as Forest Rest House is also there. I was told that Mr. Negi had passed away during the lockdown and now Mrs. Negi runs this tiny establishment. This is the only place where one can have tea, snacks, or shelter in Dodra Village. All the vehicles coming from Rohru or Kwar religiously stop here for snacks and food. The rates are genuine. I paid Rs 500/- for a room with a common bathroom. Only one bathroom presently exists at Negi Dhaba which is used by the family, people who were staying there, and the passengers of the vehicles halting there. I was informed she charges Rs 1000/- for a room but as I was traveling alone fifty percent discount.
I wondered how a single lady can manage such a complex operation of looking after the cows, milking, and grazing apart from running eat out with stay facility. I was informed; she has three married daughters settled comfortably, turn by turn all of them come to Dodra for extending helping hand to their mother, Kudos to all daughters of the world. I wondered where is that daughter of Mr. Negi who was constantly extending help to her father by cleaning utensils, serving meals to people as well as keeping watch on who has paid the money or not, what I observed during my last visit ten years back. I was informed that she was the eldest daughter and happily married in Ludhiana and she also comes as per her turn to extend a helping hand to her mother. The youngest daughter is married in Pabbar Valley in Jiskun village and she is present there to extend all the assistance her mother needed. Family bonding is so important in our lives. After dinner, I went to sleep in my allotted room. The sound of insects didn’t bother me as I am used to these sounds of nature.
Day.3. The next day after breakfast, I started early to explore Dodra Village. The sight of the Dodra village is quite fascinating as it is surrounded by mountains with the backdrop of clear blue sky at the altitude of 2450 meters. The homes of the villagers are built with stone and wood. All the homes have two floors, the ground floor for the cattle and the first floor for themselves. I saw beautiful temples over there one was ancient and the second one was much bigger made up of wood and stones. On enquiring, I was informed that these temples are dedicated to Jakh Devta and only higher caste people are allowed inside. One villager asked about my caste and only then I was allowed to enter the premises of the temple. I wondered about the caste system is so much still embedded in the psyche of villagers of these gorgeous hamlets. The temple was decorated with different parts of the animals and it was informed by the villagers that some of these animals are extinct now. The wood of the temples was beautifully carved. One can see Sewa village, which is in Uttrakhand from here. I can see only ladies working in fields, taking care of cattle, and doing the household chores. Most of the younger generation has shifted to Shimla or Chandigarh for higher studies and employment. There is a passage about twelve km which leads to Naitwar in Uttrakhand from here. This route is used by the villagers during winters as Chanshal Pass remains closed because of heavy snow. This route is also taken by the trekkers across Rupin Pass to Sangla in Kinnaur valley.
The people of this village were wondering that I was traveling all alone to this extremely remote region of Shimla district just for fun. Some of them invited me to their homes for a cup of tea or just to chit-chat. Everywhere one can see the apple orchards which bring prosperity to this village. Apple is the main crop and apart from apples, corn and peas are also grown here. Now it was noon and I have to return to the hotel for lunch. The bus for Kwar was at five p.m. still, I had plenty of time. The lady of the Dhaba offered me to show me her apple orchard, a small trek of three kilometers. I readily agreed and went with her through a beautiful trail of pristine meadows, virgin pine forests, and amazing sights of gigantic mountains along with lovely waterfalls. I thanked her for bringing me to such a gorgeous place. After spending some time there we returned to the hotel. After taking some rest and packing my rucksack I thanked the lady and her daughter for their hospitality and boarded the bus which arrived from Rohru at 5.30 p.m. for Kwar village a journey of twenty-two kilometers. It continued descent for twelve kilometers and after that continued ascent to Kwar village alongside ferocious sounding Rupin River. When the bus reached Kwar village it was quite dark. I knew from my last visit that there is a homestay named KSP at Kwar. I went straight to that and settled for the day. The tariff of the room was Rupees five hundred with a common bath. It has got only two rooms with a common bath. This is the only place to stay in Kwar village along with the FRH guest house. I took my dinner which was simple, nevertheless quite tasty consisting of lentils, rice, and potatoes, and went to sleep.
Day.4. The next day after having my breakfast I started to explore Kwar village. It
is the largest village in this region and is headquarters for this area. All the government offices are in this village. The altitude of 2490 meters is higher than Dodra. There are some shops selling household items as in Dodra. The temples of Kwar village dedicated to Kjakh Devta are more beautiful than Dodra temples because of intricate carving on the exterior front. It has more flat landmass than Dodra because of this more apple orchards and more affluence. I saw women washing clothes in a natural spring water outlet reminiscent of old Bollywood films. There is also a wine shop in the village. The greenery was quite widespread due to apple orchards and the fields of the villagers.
I went to the helipad from where 360 degrees of sheer natural beauty engross your soul. Mobile connectivity works from this place because it is the highest point of the village. This is the place where few ardent travelers who visit Kwar village pitch their tents, which is quite risky because of the presence of bears in this region. There is also a trek of thirty-two km for Bhadrasar Lake, which originates from Kwar village. I was pondering that despite abundant rustic natural splendor why, it is not on the tourist map. I went back to the village and saw a tea stall, where some other people were also having tea. I ordered tea for myself and started chit chat with them. Why despite the bountiful natural splendor in Kwar village it is not on tourist radar? I wondered. All of them showed ignorance. I persisted and wanted to know generally how many rooms are there in one home? One of them replied, generally there are four to six rooms in one home and the best room with all the facilities like attached bathroom, geyser, and satellite dish remains locked for the son in law’s visit. I told them that your daughter and son-in-law visit your home once or twice a year and the rest of the time it is locked, why this best room of your house should not earn extra income for your household, by converting it into a homestay.
The biggest drawback of Dodra Kwar villages is the lack of decent stay options, the biggest obstruction in promoting these striking serene villages as tourist destinations. They suggested that I meet the Vice President of the village council and explain the concept of homestays and only then villagers will convert their homes to homestays. They escorted me to the Vice President’s house, which was nearby. I explained to him the concept of homestays; he asked me why tourists or travelers will be willing to stay with the families in this remote destination? I enlighten him with the facts that interaction with the local population, knowing about their culture, belief, their way of life, firsthand knowledge of things to do and not to do, home-cooked food of your choice, celebrating local festivals and utmost safety can be ensured while staying in homestays. These are the reasons why tourists prefer homestays. He was ex-servicemen and understood the advantages of operating homestays and told me that he will discuss the matter with the Revenue officer and will try to convince the villagers, as there are families in the village with only three members but have two houses consisting of six rooms each. At this point, I thanked him for supporting and understanding my concept and left for my homestay. I went to bed fully content that I have done something decent for the hardworking people of the extraordinary strikingly serene village called Kwar.
Day.5. The next day, I woke up early in the morning as the departure time of the bus was 7.30 a.m. freshened up in the only washroom and boarded the bus at 7-00 a.m.This bus is the lifeline for all the villages en-route because this is the only bus plying in this region. So understandably shall be crowded. To secure a seat is the most promising effort. The bus started exactly at 7.30 a.m. and moved through a circuitous road towards Rohru. I had in mind the promise I made to the village lady that I will stay in her home in Larot village. The scheduled time for the bus to reach was 12.50 p.m. as informed by the bus conductor. The staff of the crew is unlike in big cities they behave and act like family members of the passengers, another reason to travel to remote destinations in Himachal. He enquired where I would stay in Larot village. I informed her about that lady, her offer, and my promise. He advised me to contact her after Chanshal Pass as the mobile network will be functional. After crossing Chanshal Pass I contacted her on phone, she told me that she is in her apple orchard and her father in law will be there and she will inform him about my arrival. The conductor of the bus again advised me to enquire first about the location of her home. I told him when we will be about to reach Larot village, I will enquire about the location of her home because I don’t want to disturb her with frequent calls. The bus reached Larot at 1. p.m. I had my lunch and then I called her. She informed me that her home is right on the road head and I just have to walk to her home and she had already informed her father in law about my arrival. Now, I was in two minds, whether to stay in Rohru or at Larot with consistent noise of the traffic. I am a devotee of nature. By nature, I despise noise, air pollution, and of course twisted concepts of life. The decision had to be taken, in quite an earnest spirit then. I decided to proceed to Rohru.
One of the passengers in the bus, after hearing me the concept of homestays, informed me that he has a newly constructed home in Rohru and he would like to operate it as Homestay and requested me to stay there and guide him about facilities to be added for smooth functioning of Homestay as per the prevalent norms. As the Himachal Roadways bus (Rs. 795) was at 1.00 p.m. to Delhi from Rohru, the next day I readily agreed to his offer. When we reached his home I observed that it was built completely with wood and the location was also excellent, just beside the Pabbar River, and the area was also not crowded. Still, some shops were there. From every window of the home, one can see the natural delight of the Pabbar River, mountains with dense blankets of coniferous forest. It has got six rooms two were used by his family of three, so four rooms can be operated as a homestay. All the rooms were with attached bath along with a geyser. I advised him, to plant some trees and maintain a garden with flowers in front of the home as the construction is good, the location is good and it has got all the essential amenities, some kind of flowers and greenery will enhance the loveliness of the house manifold. He told me when I will visit again the garden and greenery will be there. I had my dinner at the house; it was brilliantly cooked and was quite appetizing.
After dinner, the man of the house offered me a flute recital, which was quite enthralling. I had my mobile phone I made a video of the same.
Day.6. The next day my bus to Delhi was at 1.00 p.m. The man of the house offered me a lift to the bus station as we were still two km away from Rohru. He dropped me at the bus station. I thanked him for the comfortable night’s stay and delicious dinner and boarded the HRTC bus for Delhi. I reached Delhi early at 5.30 a.m.